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KAMPOT -
CAMBODIAN SEA FOODS
Set with picture perfection near the base of the
Elephant Mountains on the Kampong Bay River, the
provincial capital of Kampot City is of quite a
different character than the much more heavily
touristed beach town of Sihanouk Ville. Quiet lanes,
classic French colonial and Chinese architecture and
very few tourists all serve to lend Kampot a quaint,
welcoming, small town ambiance. Visitors come to
Kampot for a taste of provincial
Cambodia, the relaxed atmosphere,
and to use Kampot as a base or a
stepping stone to the Bokor Hill
Station, the beaches and islands of
Kep and the rest of southeastern
Cambodia.
For those interested in volunteer work, Kampot
offers several volunteer opportunities with NGOs and
other charitable organizations both short and long
term doing things such as teaching English,
assistance with children and disabled people,
reconstruction projects, etc.
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Come the end of the day in Kampot the place to be is at one of the
friendly little riverside cafes or pubs to relax
curbside over a cold drink or a glass of wine and
watch the sun slowly set over the river and into the
Elephant Mountains.
Things to Do and See Around Kampot and Kep
Bokor Hill Station on Phnom Bokor and Kep Beach are
perhaps the most popular day tour destinations out
of Kampot with tour operators offering very
competitively price tours. The area also offers
several other attractions including pre-Angkorian
ruins and caves, jungle trekking, bicycling tours,
river cruises, island trips, isolated beaches,
pepper plantations and some beautiful rural
countryside.
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Bokor Hill Station: Tours to Bokor are
perhaps the most popular out of Kampot. The Bokor
Hill Station on Phnom Bokor (Bokor Mountain) is a
mountaintop collection of buildings (hotel, casino,
church, royal residence, etc.), constructed by
French authorities in the early 1920s as a
complement to the already popular Kep resort area.
In the 1990s a travel author referred to Bokor as
‘the eeriest place in the world’, and it lives up to
that reputation. In its time, Bokor was an elegant
getaway for French officials and foreign visitors to
old Indochina - a classic colonial ‘hill station’
located in the mountains to allow foreigner visitors
accustomed to more temperate climes to escape the
tropical heat. But years of neglect have left
ghostly ruins - vestiges of a different age, often
shrouded in fog and clouds. One thing that the years
have not changed is the absolutely spectacular view
of the coast and the cool (sometimes cold) mountain
air. Bokor Mountain is heavily jungled and trip
beyond Bokor, including jungle trekking, can be
arranged. Wild elephants and other jungle animal are
occasionally seen. The is a small guesthouse near
the hill station with $5 rooms, good toilets and
very few other services. If you are going to
overnight on Bokor, take food as the guesthouse has
little to offer. 37km from Kampot. Take Route #3
west from Kampot to the well-marked turnoff. $5
entrance fee at the ranger station about a kilometer
up the road. Badly broken pavement all the way up
the mountain. Easiest in a 4WD. For experienced
riders, it’s a moderate dirt bike ride. It is
painful but possible on a small 100cc bike. It can
get cold on the mountain, especially at night. Bring
warm clothes.
Caves near Kampot: Limestone mountains (‘phnom’)
dot the landscape between Kampot and Kep. Many
contain limestone caves, some adorned with exotic
rock formations, and almost all containing Buddhist
shines. Make sure to bring a torch and wear shoes
suitable for climbing on rocks.
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The caves of Phnom Chhnork - Cave #1 Pre-Angkorian
ruin set in a limestone cave amongst stalagmites and
stalactites that are slowly growing back into the
ruin. Small, 4th-5th century AD brick structure
associated with the ancient state of Funan. A bit of
carving is still visible. Look for the limestone
formations near the entrance of the cave in the
shapes of elephants. Cave #2 The entrance is about
300 meters from Cave #1 in the same limestone
outcropping. Very little in the way of formations,
but quite deep, requiring climbing over piles of
rock and through small openings. Small shrine.
The cave at Phnom Sla Ta'aun Plain by comparison to
other caves, but still an interesting climb. Look
for the huge rock balanced in a hole in the ceiling.
Small shrine.
The cave at Phnom Sasear, also known as the ‘White
Elephant Cave.’ Located next to an colorful pagoda.
The stairs up the side of the outcropping provide a
beautiful view of the countryside, especially during
the wet season. The cave contains a shrine at the
base of a limestone formation alleged to resemble a
white elephant. |
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Kampong Trach: Kampong Trach is the district
that borders Vietnam. The road trip from Kampot to
the main town passes though some picturesque rural
areas. There is a new side road to Kampong Trach
town that skirts the base of Phnom Voar, (where the
victims of the 1994 Khmer Rouge kidnappings were
held.) These mountain areas of Kampong Trach were
one of the last Khmer Rouge holdouts. Kampong Trach
town is small and relatively uninteresting. The
area’s main attraction is a series of limestone
caves and tubes that have been carved into a nearby
mountain. The roof of a large cave in the center of
a mountain has collapsed, making a small, enclosed
jungle. Pagodas and shrines have been built amongst
the caves, providing for some excellent photo
possibilities. Bring a flashlight and wear good
walking shoes.
From Kampot, take the Kep road, bear left at the
White Horse Monument and follow to Kampong Trach.
After a few kilometers the road changes to badly
broken pavement. The side road mentioned above
requires a left turn onto a graded dirt road about 7
km past the White Horse Monument. It is not a
straightforward route and it may be better if you go
with a guide. Set aside the better part of a day for
the trip to the caves and back.
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Kep Beach: A single, kilometer long crescent
of sand near the tip of the Kep peninsula. Dining
platforms and seafood vendors line the road behind
the beach. Busy on weekends but often deserted
during the week. The road through Kep traces the
coastline to the beach and then circles back on
itself. Cars and vans must pay admission to drive
the loop (2500R-5000R). Motorcycles and pedestrians
are free. Be aware that the loop is an one way
street and the police do occasionally enforce the
law, levying fines against violators.
Rabbit Island
(Koh Tunsay): An easily visited
island near Kep - about 20-40
minutes from Kep by local boat.
White sand beaches and coconut
trees. Relatively clear water.
Snorkel around the rocks. No coral
but lots of fish. There are now some
very basic guesthouse facilities on
the island.
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Arrange a boat trip through your guesthouse in
Kampot or Kep or just go to the Koh Tunsay Boat Dock
in Kep town next to the Long Villa Restaurant.
River Trips Short sunset river cruises and longer
cultural/wildlife/eco trips upriver can be arranged
through Sok Lim Tours or your guesthouse. Sunset
river cruises are becoming more popular, running
from Kampot to the rapids at Tekchhou and back.
Tekcchou Resort: A picnic area on the Prek
Chha river. Popular with the locals, especially on
weekends. Lots of food/drink stalls. The cool rapids
and river breeze are quite pleasant. 8km. Good road.
Tekcchou Zoo: Asian-style mini zoo displaying
a variety of local fauna. 8km north of Kampot.
Tekcchou Resort: A picnic area on the Prek
Chha river. Popular with the locals, especially on
weekends. Lots of food/drink stalls. The cool rapids
and river breeze are quite pleasant. 8km. Good road.
Tekcchou Zoo: Asian-style mini zoo displaying
a variety of local fauna. 8km north of Kampot.
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