SHOPPING
 

Shopping in Phnom Penh

For Cambodian souvenirs, art, silks, handicrafts and curios, both Phnom Penh and Siem Reap offer a good range and variety of shopping opportunities and products. Traditional Cambodian souvenirs include fine hand-loomed silks, Angkorian and Buddhist themed carvings and statuary, hand-pounded silverwork, colored gems, traditional handicrafts, Cambodian basketry and of course, the most traditional of all Cambodian souvenirs, the krama - a checkered scarf unique to the Khmer people and tourists to Cambodia. But there is much more to the shopping scene these days than traditional crafts and souvenirs. Fine boutiques and art galleries offer unique, sophisticated selections of high-quality contemporary Asian art, EuroAsian fashions in Khmer silk, art deco furniture, home decor and, of particular interest, the artistic works of a new generation of Cambodian artists coming to the fore after decades of near silence and making its mark on the art world. Several boutiques are clustered together along Street 240 behind to the Royal Palace. Boutiques, silk shops and souvenir shops also dot the riverfront area and the Boeung Keng Kang 1 area. Street 178 next to the National Museum is known as 'Art Street' for the art galleries that line the street from the riverfront to Street 19.

What to buy ?
Cambodian Silk - Cambodian silks are prized by silk collectors the world over. Most of the silk available in Cambodia is hand-loomed using the traditional ikat method of dying the threads and looming in the patterns. Both raw and fine silks are available in the form of bolts, sarongs, clothing and various handicrafts. Cambodian silk is available at the Russian Market, silk shops and boutiques across town, many specializing in silk creations such as tailored Asian and Euro-Asian fashions, fashion accessories and soft furnishings. To learn more check out the book, ‘Traditional Textiles of Cambodia’ by Gillian Green

Silverwork - Silver betel containers are popular, traditional souvenirs. These pounded silver containers are often shaped like animals, fruits and vegetables, and were originally used in ceremonial and everyday life to hold dried betel nut. Nowadays, silver betel containers are made primarily for sale as souvenirs but are still hand crafted using traditional techniques and styles. Available at the traditional markets, most souvenir shops and at some jewelry stores such as Sit Down Jeweler.

Statues and Carvings - Statues and carvings of traditional subjects, often copies of Angkorian era works as well as Buddhas and various Hindu gods and personages, are available in stone, wood and brass. Statues make for relatively heavy, bulky souvenirs but are still very popular because of their beauty and artistic value. The replica of an Angkorian era bust of Jayavarman VII with its graceful lines and peaceful smile is truly captivating and is perhaps the most popular piece.

Art - Over the last couple of years Cambodia’s art scene has blossomed, particularly in the contemporary arts as a new generation of Cambodian artists takes the fore. The chic little silk, art and furniture boutiques along Street 240 and the art galleries and boutiques on Street 178 (‘Art Street’) near the National Museum are both great areas to explore for quality traditional and contemporary Southeast Asian art. Of particular note, the award winning Reyum Gallery on Street 178 offers some of the most interesting and important exhibitions in town, featuring the work of some of Cambodia's best known and upcoming contemporary artists as well as cultural exhibitions. New exhibitions open every couple of months. Reyum also offers a unique selection of books on Cambodian culture, art, archaeology and architecture. Other art spaces offering changing exhibitions include Java Café & Gallery, Scandinavia Hotel, two fish gallery café and Miles Jazz Café all offer regularly changing contemporary art and photography exhibitions. Top end hotels such as InterContinental, Le Royal, Cambodiana and Sunway offer occasional exhibitions and the FCC often hosts photo exhibitions. Lastly, check out galleries such as Asasax Art Gallery, and New Art Gallery. Check the back page of the Friday Cambodia Daily and the 'Listings' section of the Phnom Penh Post for new and on-going exhibitions. See the JavaArts website at www.javaarts.org for information on the Cambodian art scene and artists.

Gems - Western Cambodia, particularly in the area of Pailin, is a fertile source of colored stones, particularly sapphires and rubies. In addition to the listed jewelers, gem dealers can be found at the Central Market and Russian Market. Know something about gems and/or know your jeweler before spending much money.


Where to buy ?
 

Traditional Markets
 

Central Market (Psah Thmei)
The distinctive yellow domed Phsar Thmey (Central Market) is a ‘must see’ when visiting Phnom Penh, both as a historic building and as a shopping destination. The central walkway to the front entrance of the market is lined with a complex of stalls catering to visitors and locals alike, hawking a wide range of souvenir items including statuary, silverwork, silks and kramas, carvings, photocopy books and postcards and the largest selection of souvenir t-shirts and caps and town. The book sellers right next to the entrance also have a complete selection of Cambodia maps including topographic maps. The central interior of the market houses an amazing display of gems and jewelry. (Phsar Thmei means ‘New Market’, but ‘Central Market’ has caught on in English.)

Russian Market (Psah Toul Tom Poung)
Of all the traditional markets, the Russian Market offers the largest and most varied selection of souvenirs, curios and other items of interest to the visitor. The south side of the market is the place to begin your shopping foray, lined inside and out with stalls selling carvings, handicrafts, silks and fabrics, curios, CDs and inexpensive electronic goods. This market offers the largest selection of bootlegged VCDs, DVDs and CDs in town, with vendors located near southeast entrance. There are also several fabric vendors making it a good place to pick up fabric to take to the tailor. (This market became the foreigners market during the 1980’s when most of the foreigners were Russians, hence the name ‘Russian Market.’)

 

Shopping Siem Reap
Siem Reap is an excellent place to buy Cambodian souvenirs, silks, handicrafts, textiles and contemporary art. Only Phnom Penh offers a comparable selection. In addition to the tradition shopping venues, over the last few of years there has been an explosion of new shops, galleries and boutiques, offering a varied selection of quality handicrafts and silks as well as original artistic creations in a variety of media.

Phsar Chas (the ‘Old Market’) is one of Siem Reap’s largest traditional covered markets and offers the largest selection of souvenirs under one roof in town. In fact, this market is really a ‘must visit’ in itself for the unique, colorful, local shopping experience. Of all the local markets, the Old Market offers the widest variety of souvenirs as well as the best selection of handicrafts and curios, including such items as traditional silverwork, silks, baskets, statuary, carvings and traditional musical instruments. See the Old Market area map. Also check out the just opened Angkor Night Market off Sivatha. The new night market promises an interesting after hours shopping venue.

Individual little boutiques, art and photo galleries are scattered across the town, though there is a concentration of places in the Old Market area. The boutiques tend to offer higher quality, more unique and sophisticated selections of items than the Old Market - some focusing on Cambodian silks and tailoring, others on high quality handicrafts, NGO-based crafts, Asian-inspired photographic and artistic creations or specialty items such as local candles, spices and teas. Perhaps most interestingly, a new generation of Cambodian artists is making its mark and contemporary Cambodian art is coming to the fore after decades of silence. In addition to the listed galleries, check out The Arthouse Gallery at The Warehouse and the The Arts Lounge at Hotel de la Paix, both featuring regularly changing exhibits featuring the works of contemporary Cambodian artists.

What to Buy ?
Hand-woven Cambodian silks, stone and woodcarvings, statues and castings, contemporary Cambodian art, Cambodian handicrafts and traditional musical instruments, temple rubbings, silver betel containers, colored gems and basketry are among the most popular souvenirs. The most useful and one of the cheapest souvenirs that you can buy is a traditional checkered Cambodian scarf (krama). If you don’t mind looking like a tourist, wear it around your neck like the locals to keep the intense tropical sun off the back of your neck.

Cambodian Silks
Cambodian silks are prized by silk collectors the world over. Most of the silk available in Cambodia is hand-loomed using the traditional ikat method of dying the threads and looming in the patterns. Both raw and fine silks are available in the form of bolts, sarongs, clothing and various handicrafts. Many of the pieces available are potential collector’s items. A fascinating way to learn about Cambodian silk is to visit the National Silk Center (see listing page 56) where visitors can witness start-to-finish silk creation - growing and harvesting mulberry (food for the silk worms), the breeding process and life cycle of the silk worm, collection of cocoons, separation and spinning the silk, the dying process and the creation of beautiful silk weavings on wooden, multi-harness hand looms. Cambodian silk is available at silk shops and boutiques across town, many specializing in silk creations such as tailored Asian and Euro-Asian fashions, pillows, blankets, purses and other decor and accessories. To learn more about Cambodian silk check the bookstore for ‘Traditional Textiles of Cambodia’ by Gillian Green

Statues and carvings
Statues and carvings of traditional subjects, often copies of Angkorian era works as well as Buddhas and various Hindu gods and personages, are available in stone, wood and brass. Statues make for relatively heavy, bulky souvenirs but are still very popular because of their beauty and artistic value. The replica of an Angkorian era bust of Jayavarman VII with its graceful lines and peaceful smile is truly captivating and is perhaps the most popular piece. Statues and carvings are

available at the Old Market and most souvenir shops, though it pays to shop around for the best price and quality. Highly-recommended is a stop at one of the local workshops such as Artisans D’Angkor to see craftsman producing wood and stone carvings. At Artisans d’Angkor visitors can observe artisans making traditional wood and stone carvings and lacquerwares following traditional techniques. Of special interest is the traditional polychromy finishing technique that is being practiced in the workshops. Polychromy imparts a unique patina to stone and wood pieces. Free tours available. See the Artisans d Angkor listing. Silver betel containers

Silver betel containers are popular, traditional souvenirs. These pounded silver containers are often shaped like animals, fruits and vegetables, and were originally used in ceremonial and everyday life to hold dried betel nut. (Betel is a type of palm nut that is chewed as a mild stimulant.) In the traditional market, betel looks like coin shaped, dark red plugs. You may see people, particularly older women from rural areas, with teeth stained deep red from years of chewing betel. Nowadays, silver betel containers are made primarily for sale as souvenirs but are still hand crafted using traditional techniques and styles. And in comparison to statues and carvings, they are comparatively light weight and transportable.

‘Temple rubbings’
‘Temple rubbings’ are for sale everywhere in Siem Reap - the temples, the souvenir shops and the Old Market - but are, in fact, neither actual rubbings nor from the temples. They are in fact made from a heavy paper that is moistened then molded over recreations of original and imagined Angkorian-era temple carvings. Nevertheless, these rubbings are distinctive, light weight, transportable, inexpensive and uniquely Cambodian souvenirs.

Gems
Gems are a tempting souvenir. Western Cambodia, particularly in the area of Pailin, is a fertile source of colored stones. The markets in Siem Reap are full of jewelers specializing in Cambodian sapphires and rubies. Know something about gems and/or know the jeweler before spending much money.




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